Car-Free Cyprus: Buses, Bikes and Trails Around Polis and Latchi

Arriving and getting your bearings

Most car-free visitors reach Polis via Paphos. From Paphos International Airport, the 613 bus runs to Paphos's Karavella station in about 25 minutes; from there the 645 intercity service to Polis takes roughly 50 minutes and drops you at the central bus stop on Leoforos Polis. A taxi from the airport direct to Polis costs around €60–70 and takes 50 minutes. If you arrive by ferry at Latchi, the harbour is a 10-minute walk from the main Latchi strip, with local buses meeting most arrivals.

Within Polis, everything is walkable: the pedestrianised centre around Plateia Eleftherias, the municipal market, and the low-rise hotels along Chrysochou Avenue. Bikes can be rented from two shops near the beach road, roughly €10–15 per day for a city bike or €20–30 for a mountain bike. Book accommodation near the centre or the beach road to avoid needing a car for evening meals. The town is flat and shaded in parts, making it easy to cycle to the beach at Dasoudi or the edge of the Akamas.

Buses and minibuses: the practical network

The 645 intercity bus links Polis with Paphos three to four times daily, taking about 50 minutes and costing €5 one way (€10 return). A local minibus, the 622, shuttles between Polis and Latchi roughly every hour from 07:00 to 19:00, a 15-minute ride for €1.50. From Latchi harbour, the 623 continues to the Baths of Aphrodite, a 10-minute trip, though service is sparse outside summer. In July and August, extra evening services run to Latchi for the tavernas. Outside these months, plan your return carefully: the last bus from Latchi to Polis is usually around 18:30.

For the Akamas interior, there is no public bus. The alternative is a licensed taxi from Polis to the Akamas trails (around €25–30 one way to the Akamas peninsula car park) or joining a small-group boat trip from Latchi harbour to the Blue Lagoon, which runs from April to October and includes a swim stop. I would skip the organised jeep tours unless you want a guide; they are expensive and you spend more time in the vehicle than on foot. The bus network is reliable but slow; treat it as part of the day rather than a quick transfer.

Bikes and trails: where to ride and walk

The flat coastal path from Polis to Latchi is a 10 km ride on a mix of dedicated cycleway and quiet road, taking about 40 minutes at an easy pace. It passes the fishing shelters at Prodromi and the beach at Latchi, with several tavernas for a mid-ride stop. For a longer ride, head inland to the village of Neo Chorio, 4 km uphill from Latchi, where the gradient is steady and the reward is a view over Chrysochou Bay. Mountain bikers should aim for the Akamas fire roads; the loop from Latchi to the Baths of Aphrodite and back is 14 km with 300 m of climbing, and you need a sturdy bike with good brakes.

Walkers have the pick of the Akamas: the Aphrodite Trail from the Baths of Aphrodite is a 7.5 km loop taking three to four hours, with a steep climb to a ridge and a descent past the ruins of Pyrgos tis Rigainas. The Adonis Trail is shorter at 5 km but rougher underfoot. Start early in summer; by 11:00 the heat is punishing and there is little shade. Bring at least two litres of water per person. I would book a hotel in Polis rather than Latchi for a walking week, because Polis has more choice of restaurants and a supermarket for trail supplies.

When to go and what to skip

The best months for a car-free trip are April to June and September to October. July and August are hot (35°C and above) and busy with day-trippers; buses are fuller and the trails are exposed. May is ideal: the Akamas is green, the sea is warm enough for swimming, and the Latchi tavernas are open without the August crush. Winter is quiet; some Latchi businesses close from November to March, and bus services are reduced, so base yourself in Polis where there is year-round life.

Skip the idea of seeing the whole island without a car. Paphos is reachable by bus, but Limassol and Nicosia are not practical for a day trip. Also skip the tourist train that runs from Latchi to the Baths of Aphrodite; it is slow and you can cycle the same route in less time. If you want a boat trip, book directly at Latchi harbour rather than through a hotel; you will get the same experience for less. For accommodation, I would choose a small hotel on the edge of Polis within a five-minute walk of the bus stop, which gives you flexibility for early starts.