Field notes
Cyprus travel guides
Dispatches on itineraries, day trips and the essentials — written on the ground, area by area.

Itineraries
48 hours in Cyprus
Two days, one sea-facing base and roughly 180 km of driving: Limassol seafront, the Roman theatre at Kourion, the Paphos mosaics and a sunset at Aphrodite's Rock.

Itineraries
One week in Cyprus
Seven days, three hotel bases and about 550 km of driving, from the Paphos mosaics and the Akamas to Troodos monasteries, Limassol wine villages and the divided capital.

Itineraries
Cyprus in 3 days on a budget
Three days on the Cyprus coast for around €280 per person including a bed by the sea, using €1.50 city buses, €4 intercity coaches and archaeological sites that cost €2.50.

Itineraries
Cyprus in 3 days, upgraded
Three days on the sea done properly: a five-star beachfront base from €400 a night, a private Akamas boat day, Commandaria in the cellar and a tasting menu above the water.

Day trips
Day trip to Paphos from Cyprus
A full day on the west coast for about €25 in entries and fares: UNESCO mosaics, rock-cut royal tombs, Coral Bay sand and Aphrodite's Rock on the way home.

Day trips
Day trip to Limassol from Cyprus
The island's most confident city in a day: a €4.50 crusader castle, the 1.7 km Molos seafront, the Roman theatre at Kourion and wine villages 30 minutes uphill.

Day trips
Day trip to Nicosia from Cyprus
Europe's last divided capital in a day: Venetian walls, the €4.50 Cyprus Museum, the Ledra Street crossing and a 1572 caravanserai, all within a 5 km circle.

Day trips
Day trip to Kyrenia from Cyprus
The north coast's horseshoe harbour, a castle with a 4th-century BC shipwreck inside, Bellapais Abbey and St Hilarion Castle, all within 40 minutes of the Nicosia crossing.

Day trips
Day trip to Troodos from Cyprus
Escape the coast for a day at 1,952 m: ten UNESCO painted churches, the Caledonia Falls trail, Kykkos Monastery and villages ten degrees cooler than your beach.

Essentials
Where to stay in Cyprus
Seven bases cover almost every version of a Cyprus trip, from the five-star Amathus strip in Limassol to the harbour hotels of Kyrenia. Expect €90 a night in Nicosia in winter and €500 on the Limassol seafront in August.

Essentials
When to visit Cyprus
The sea holds above 22°C from June to November and the island claims around 320 sunny days a year. Here is what each month actually delivers, from €170 sea-view rooms in November to 40°C afternoons in Nicosia.

Essentials
Getting around Cyprus
There are no trains, four motorways and a decent intercity bus network. Expect €30 to €50 a day for a hire car, €1.50 for a town bus ride and about 75 minutes from Paphos to Limassol.

Essentials
Money, tipping, and prices in Cyprus
Cyprus runs on the euro, cards work almost everywhere and a frappé on the Limassol seafront costs about €3.50. Budget €80 a day backpacking, €180 mid-range or €450 for a five-star sea-view stay.

Essentials
Safety and street smarts in Cyprus
Cyprus is one of the safest countries in the Mediterranean for visitors, with the real risks being the road, the sun and the sea rather than crime. Here are the 6 things that actually cause trouble, and the number to dial: 112.

Food & drink
Signature dishes of Cyprus in Cyprus
A full Cypriot meze runs to more than 20 plates and costs €25 to €30 per person. Here are the dishes worth ordering, the ones worth travelling for, and where along the coast to find them.

Food & drink
Best markets in Cyprus
From the covered municipal halls of Limassol and Nicosia to the fishing shelter at Potamos Liopetriou, these are the 8 markets worth setting an alarm for. Most trade before 1pm and almost all prefer cash.

Food & drink
Cheap eats in Cyprus under €10
You can eat extremely well here for under €10 a head: a loaded souvlaki pita is €5, a bakery breakfast €4 and a plate of home cooking in Nicosia's old town €8. Here are the 7 categories that deliver.

Experiences
Free things to do in Cyprus
The sea is free, the walled towns are free, and the best gorge hike on the island costs nothing but petrol. Here are 30-plus ways to fill a week in Cyprus without paying admission.

Experiences
Cyprus nightlife: where to go and where to skip
Limassol runs the island's best night out, Nicosia has the smartest bars, and two famous strips are worth avoiding entirely. A candid guide to five nightlife scenes, with drink prices and closing times.

Experiences
Best sunset spots in Cyprus
The west coast owns the sunset here — 12 places to watch it, from Aphrodite's Rock and the Akamas sea caves to Limassol rooftops and the Kyrenia harbour wall, with arrival times and parking notes.
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